Surfs Up!
" Wow! What a surf! " I like this Hemingway quote...spoken by a true waterman.
Any waterman out there in cyberspace might enjoy West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief By Steven Kotler published by Bloomsbury, ©June 2006.
The book has many Hemingway quotes and deals with themes and subjects Hemingway was interested in and wrote about...OBE's, near death experiences, wildness, synchronicity, the mythic hero and most notably the ' healing quest ' that ultimately takes the author and the reader NW ...the direction Hemingway took in life and in which he takes us in his major works. { hijo + Leo might want to take a look. ]
" In fact, all mythologies{ ancient Near East, Greeks, Andean, Christendom...} no matter their geographical origin, seem to agree that northwest is the direction in which one must travel to have access to the land of the gods. In this collection of stories of the Far North it is no coincidence that northwest is, indeed, the direction in which these authors take us. " Jon Tuska
With out spoiling the read, I can reveal it is not the Northwest U.P., nor the Old North Road in Africa nor any of the other places on Hemingway's adventure map that Kotler takes us. He takes us to such a " good place " , that even though in life Hawaii did not strike his fancy, I am positive Hemingway would have liked Kaena Point after reading about it in this book.
" They call Kaena Point a leaping-off place - this spooky spit of lava rock and desolation hung off Oahu's northwest corner- for the souls of the dead must first come through Kaena Point before making the leap to the next world. Po was the next world, the land of the gods, and Kaena Point was the gate way to Po. "
" Surfer magazine once speculated that this may be the most concentrated spot of ocean energy on Earth. "
Here is a link to a picture of the largest wave photograped...taken on December 4,1969 by Greg Noll at Kaena Point.
http://www.gregnoll.com/kaena_point.htm
" Wow! What a surf! "
Speaking of SURFER MAGAZINE...the August 2008 ' Adventure Issue ' has been released. It is a neat oversized collecttors addition.
http://www.surfermag.com/
Adventure 104 gives " Adventure Reading Fundementals " by listing and writing about five books. Good to see one of them was Hemingway'sTHE OLD MAN AND THE SEA! [ Mark...you would be happy to learn # 5 was Lansings ENDURANCE!! ]
The editor wonders " what fortuitous turns surf writing might have taken had Papa ever stepped foot on a board ".
Well... I"m no Hemingwaybut here is my contribution to the genre:
STOKED!
On Christmas day 1963, as the old year was about to end and before the new year began, an 18 year old surfer named Robert August, in the spirit of one of the Beach Boys many hits of 1963 - CATCH A WAVE, caught a wave and was sittin' on top of the world for a ride that would forever change " things surfing " .
August actually stood tall on a classic Hawaiian style longboard. He nose-road and hung five { that is dangled his toes off the edge } just like the wave rider in the definitive anthem of American surf music - the Spring of 1963's SURFER JOE by the Surfaris.
" He went down to Huntington Beach one week
For the annual surfer's convention meet
Hangin' five and walkin' the nose
And when the meet was over
The trophy was Joe's "
I am told the wave Robert August " caught ", called Raglan, was in excess of two miles and has since become New Zealand's [ The traditional Maori name for New Zealand is ' Aotearoa, ' which means " land of the long white cloud. " ] most famous break and is one of the world's best. It takes its name from a nearby town.
Bruce Brown shot footage of August riding Raglan in what has been called " a cornerstone sequence " in THE ENDLESS SUMMER. " The ride's so long it's ridiculous, " says Brown in his voice-over narrative for the film. In the shot, August keeps surfing on and on. Yes, almost unbelievably, " it is the same surfer on the same wave " answers Steven Kotler in WEST OF JESUS: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief to the question of those who have watched the flick.
ENDLESS SUMMER, the truly original surf movie, is #1 on surfer's lists of the greatest surf films of all time. [ #2 on my list is the more recent IN GOD'S HANDS. ]THE ENDLESS SUMMER has enchanted so many people - surfers and non surfers alike and inspired thousands to go on surfari in search of their own perfect wave.
I have heard old timers say " there was nothing like the era of the 60's in which to be stoked. It was the best time - less crowded and there was a lot of character back then. "
True - I remember surfing at Cahoon Hollow in late August of 63. We could look for miles down the expansive beach. No one was on the beach nor were there any swimmers in the water except my 2 buddies, 1 seal and me. [ After seeing what was left of a seal on a bed of ice in the back of Chatham's Harbor Master's pick up in August of 2007, I suppose I should allow for a 5th swimmer in the water that summers day! ]
But then again - surfing is at a neat point right now. As a waterman who has " caught waves " in many places and is now over 60 years old, I have come to appreciate the surf adage - " You're always gonna surf your best where you grew up. Open your own back door and step into liquid. "
Saturday morning December 29, 2007 I called the boys at Nauset Sports in Orleans to get their final surf report for the year. The waves were chest high - weak swell. With south winds the tide was heading high. I went on line and took a look at the Beachcomber's live web cam of Cahoon Hollow in Wellfleet. Surfs up! But there was heavy cloudiness. The temperature was down - air 47 degrees Fahrenheit - water 42 degree F.
" Let's go! " I told my wife and her sisters family who were welcoming in the new year with us. " I'm going to take you on a surfin safari to all our favorite summertime play grounds. "
We piled into 2 cars. Without a second thought, I left my bodyboard bag [ this years Christmas present from Sharon ], bodyboards, wet suit and fins in the house. However, I was sure to don my favorite hooded surf sweatshirt. You could still make out the faded lettering - HUNTINGTON BEACH - ROBERT AUGUST. The raised letters " RA " and " 63 " hand sewn on the front were torn and frayed.
Best
Paul
Any waterman out there in cyberspace might enjoy West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief By Steven Kotler published by Bloomsbury, ©June 2006.
The book has many Hemingway quotes and deals with themes and subjects Hemingway was interested in and wrote about...OBE's, near death experiences, wildness, synchronicity, the mythic hero and most notably the ' healing quest ' that ultimately takes the author and the reader NW ...the direction Hemingway took in life and in which he takes us in his major works. { hijo + Leo might want to take a look. ]
" In fact, all mythologies{ ancient Near East, Greeks, Andean, Christendom...} no matter their geographical origin, seem to agree that northwest is the direction in which one must travel to have access to the land of the gods. In this collection of stories of the Far North it is no coincidence that northwest is, indeed, the direction in which these authors take us. " Jon Tuska
With out spoiling the read, I can reveal it is not the Northwest U.P., nor the Old North Road in Africa nor any of the other places on Hemingway's adventure map that Kotler takes us. He takes us to such a " good place " , that even though in life Hawaii did not strike his fancy, I am positive Hemingway would have liked Kaena Point after reading about it in this book.
" They call Kaena Point a leaping-off place - this spooky spit of lava rock and desolation hung off Oahu's northwest corner- for the souls of the dead must first come through Kaena Point before making the leap to the next world. Po was the next world, the land of the gods, and Kaena Point was the gate way to Po. "
" Surfer magazine once speculated that this may be the most concentrated spot of ocean energy on Earth. "
Here is a link to a picture of the largest wave photograped...taken on December 4,1969 by Greg Noll at Kaena Point.
http://www.gregnoll.com/kaena_point.htm
" Wow! What a surf! "
Speaking of SURFER MAGAZINE...the August 2008 ' Adventure Issue ' has been released. It is a neat oversized collecttors addition.
http://www.surfermag.com/
Adventure 104 gives " Adventure Reading Fundementals " by listing and writing about five books. Good to see one of them was Hemingway'sTHE OLD MAN AND THE SEA! [ Mark...you would be happy to learn # 5 was Lansings ENDURANCE!! ]
The editor wonders " what fortuitous turns surf writing might have taken had Papa ever stepped foot on a board ".
Well... I"m no Hemingwaybut here is my contribution to the genre:
STOKED!
On Christmas day 1963, as the old year was about to end and before the new year began, an 18 year old surfer named Robert August, in the spirit of one of the Beach Boys many hits of 1963 - CATCH A WAVE, caught a wave and was sittin' on top of the world for a ride that would forever change " things surfing " .
August actually stood tall on a classic Hawaiian style longboard. He nose-road and hung five { that is dangled his toes off the edge } just like the wave rider in the definitive anthem of American surf music - the Spring of 1963's SURFER JOE by the Surfaris.
" He went down to Huntington Beach one week
For the annual surfer's convention meet
Hangin' five and walkin' the nose
And when the meet was over
The trophy was Joe's "
I am told the wave Robert August " caught ", called Raglan, was in excess of two miles and has since become New Zealand's [ The traditional Maori name for New Zealand is ' Aotearoa, ' which means " land of the long white cloud. " ] most famous break and is one of the world's best. It takes its name from a nearby town.
Bruce Brown shot footage of August riding Raglan in what has been called " a cornerstone sequence " in THE ENDLESS SUMMER. " The ride's so long it's ridiculous, " says Brown in his voice-over narrative for the film. In the shot, August keeps surfing on and on. Yes, almost unbelievably, " it is the same surfer on the same wave " answers Steven Kotler in WEST OF JESUS: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief to the question of those who have watched the flick.
ENDLESS SUMMER, the truly original surf movie, is #1 on surfer's lists of the greatest surf films of all time. [ #2 on my list is the more recent IN GOD'S HANDS. ]THE ENDLESS SUMMER has enchanted so many people - surfers and non surfers alike and inspired thousands to go on surfari in search of their own perfect wave.
I have heard old timers say " there was nothing like the era of the 60's in which to be stoked. It was the best time - less crowded and there was a lot of character back then. "
True - I remember surfing at Cahoon Hollow in late August of 63. We could look for miles down the expansive beach. No one was on the beach nor were there any swimmers in the water except my 2 buddies, 1 seal and me. [ After seeing what was left of a seal on a bed of ice in the back of Chatham's Harbor Master's pick up in August of 2007, I suppose I should allow for a 5th swimmer in the water that summers day! ]
But then again - surfing is at a neat point right now. As a waterman who has " caught waves " in many places and is now over 60 years old, I have come to appreciate the surf adage - " You're always gonna surf your best where you grew up. Open your own back door and step into liquid. "
Saturday morning December 29, 2007 I called the boys at Nauset Sports in Orleans to get their final surf report for the year. The waves were chest high - weak swell. With south winds the tide was heading high. I went on line and took a look at the Beachcomber's live web cam of Cahoon Hollow in Wellfleet. Surfs up! But there was heavy cloudiness. The temperature was down - air 47 degrees Fahrenheit - water 42 degree F.
" Let's go! " I told my wife and her sisters family who were welcoming in the new year with us. " I'm going to take you on a surfin safari to all our favorite summertime play grounds. "
We piled into 2 cars. Without a second thought, I left my bodyboard bag [ this years Christmas present from Sharon ], bodyboards, wet suit and fins in the house. However, I was sure to don my favorite hooded surf sweatshirt. You could still make out the faded lettering - HUNTINGTON BEACH - ROBERT AUGUST. The raised letters " RA " and " 63 " hand sewn on the front were torn and frayed.
Best
Paul
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